THE EVERGREEN FORESTS and the soothing silence are just a couple of reasons why Northern California’s hot springs are so inviting-along with the deep sense of calm that warm, mineral-rich waters bring to the body.
For centuries, thermal pools have been revered for their healing properties, offering relief for both physical and mental ailments. These baths have been known to ease conditions such as arthritis, fibromyalgia, asthma and other respiratory issues, making them a natural source of relaxation for both longtime soakers and first-time visitors.
Since moving to Mendocino County, touring the local hot springs has provided a sense of comfort as I continue discovering this breathtaking section of California. Over the past few months, I’ve been fortunate to spend time soaking in the baths, which have enhanced both my physical and mental well-being, while also providing plenty to write about!
Here are some tips and insights I can share from exploring three different hot springs in the area.
Vichy Springs Resort
Address: 2605 Vichy Springs Road, Ukiah. Day Pass: $45
One of the reasons Vichy Springs is so well-loved is the sheer convenience of its location. About a 10-minute drive northeast of Ukiah, the route takes you through a scenic stretch of vineyards and trees lining both sides of Vichy Springs Road. While Vichy may not offer the same sense of isolation as other nearby hot springs, it presents an inviting, simple resort experience, perfect for soaking in the mineral waters and then easily heading to dinner at the Ukiah Brewing Company, just a short drive away. (A burger and fries or a simple fish and chips with a beer is the perfect complement to a relaxing, indulgent spa day.)
Another reason locals and out-of-towners love Vichy is the amount of land available to explore while on the property. The Vichy estate features 700 scenic acres, with several private trails to choose from. One of the most popular hikes, Chemisal Falls, is a 30- to 40-minute hike along Little Grizzly Creek that leads to a dainty 40-foot waterfall, misting ferns and plants growing around the pool formed by the spring.
Vichy Springs is a 170-year-old resort known for its notable list of writers, politicians and famous athletes who have vouched for its relaxing, mineral-dense warm baths. (One of Vichy’s famous signs, featuring Jack London standing with his arms over his head and wearing nothing but bathing suit bottoms, is currently displayed on a billboard along Highway 101 heading north from San Francisco.)
The Pomo Indians, who are native to the region, were the first people to discover the medicinal components of the water. It is speculated that the Pomo tribe used the springs for ceremonial purposes as well.
In the late 1800s, Col. William Doolan, a Union supporter and Civil War veteran, took over the land from a Spanish soldier, Cayetano Juarez, who was given the property from other European colonizers. Doolan turned it into a successful hot springs resort, which housed 200 guests at its peak. He was the developer who decided to install concrete baths, a cold swimming pool, and a set of cottages and rooms for guests. Many of these original guest rooms still exist at the resort today. He named the establishment Doolan’s Ukiah Vichy Springs as a tribute to Vichy, a town in central France known for its geothermal pools.
Eventually, Doolan lost the property to foreclosure, forfeiting it to the Redemeyer family. A.F. Redemeyer, the owner of the Bank of Ukiah, later passed the hot springs to his son, John Redemeyer, who operated the property from the early 1900s until 1948. That year, brothers Arnold and Henry Erickson purchased the springs from the Redemeyers.
In 1977, two hot spring aficionados with a deep respect for mineral water and its healing properties leased the Vichy Springs property from the brothers, later securing an option to purchase the resort. Those two were Gilbert and Marjorie Aschoff, the current owners of Vichy Springs. According to the Vichy website, had the Aschoffs not purchased the land and revived the resort, the Erickson brothers would have turned it into a sprawling mobile home park, a development the Aschoffs were vehemently opposed to.
In 1979, the Aschoffs officially purchased the entire Vichy Springs property, and by 1982, they had begun renovations to restore the landmark to its former glory.
“This place used to have a bar where people could get cheap drinks and cheap steak,” said owner Gilber Aschoff in an interview. “The brothers left it a dump, with trash everywhere and feral stray cats. I wanted to revive the place, to save the hot springs and keep them alive.”
Aschoff noted just how special Vichy mineral water is in healing the body and how the water can help with various ailments.
“This is the only mineral water in the county that you can actually drink and it’s beneficial for your body,” Aschoff said, comparing the Vichy water to other hot springs in the area. He noted that the Vichy water, which is rich in sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium and lithium, can help with general relaxation, loosening of the muscles and better digestive health. “This water can help you with a lot of things, and make you feel so relaxed after soaking.”
Vichy Springs offers spa services such as massages and has cottages and suites for overnight stays, allowing guests to relax amid the area’s breathtaking natural surroundings.
Both Wi-Fi and cell service are available at Vichy. Water amenities include the famous champagne baths and beauty baths, both known for their high mineral content and skin-softening properties. The resort also features an Olympic-size swimming pool, a hot tub and several mineral water tubs overlooking a scenic view of the surrounding woods. One thing to remember about Vichy is that the temperature of the mineral baths runs at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit, making the baths a bit cooler than some other hot springs in Northern California.
I would bring a towel, bathrobe, sweater and slippers to the hot spring. It’s important to warm up before making the short walk from the baths to your car. Don’t forget a water bottle, though drinking water is available on-site for guests.
Vichy features some of the most beautiful hiking trails in the county and is conveniently located just outside Ukiah, although it’s not my top choice for relaxation. If you’re looking to socialize and bring friends to a slightly more affordable hot spring experience, Vichy is a good option. I also appreciate that Vichy has a large communal hot tub, where you can meet people from various countries and cultures, and there are no strict rules about talking etiquette or speaking in a low volume while conversing with guests.
Luckily, Vichy is the easiest place to go to if you don’t have a reservation. It’s rarely booked up for day-use passes, so you can spontaneously visit on a lazy weekend or after work if you arrive before the evening. Vichy doesn’t accept online booking for day-use passes, but you can call (707)-462-9516 or email info@vichysprings.com to make a reservation.
Harbin Hot Springs
Address: 18424 Harbin Springs Road, Middletown. Day pass: Monday through Thursday costs $40 while Friday through Sunday costs $50. Guests are also required to pay a one-month membership fee of $15, bringing the total for a weekend day pass to $65.
Harbin, the farthest destination I traveled to experience the mineral-rich pools, is an adventure I’d recommend if I had a few days off work and time to explore the vast amenities the property offers.
Harbin provides the most guest offerings by far in terms of lodging, mineral pools, yoga classes, and food and drinks prepared on-site. You could easily spend a week-long vacation without needing to leave the property, unless you need to buy a phone charger or other items at the nearby gas station. (But it is important to note that Harbin has limited cell service, available only at the entrance and food court area. In fact, you’re not allowed to bring cell phones into the pool area and are encouraged to keep most electronics in your car or guest room.)
Harbin is the only hot spring I reviewed outside of Mendocino County, but it’s included here in part because of the retreat center’s allure and its popular reputation among yogis and massage practitioners, who view the center as a source of education in their healing work.
Harbin is located in Lake County, in a rural area called Middletown, near Kelseyville, an unincorporated community located near the scenic waters of Clear Lake. To travel to Harbin from Ukiah, pack snacks and a light lunch for the drive, as Highway 20 offers few food options until you reach the Clearlake area. Once you reach Upper Lake, take Highway 29, which leads to Kelseyville. Highway 29 transitions into Highway 175, where you’ll navigate long winding roads through the hills, with residential homes and even junkyards lining either side, and more cypress and juniper trees than you can count. When you reach Bottle Rock Road, turn onto Harbin Springs Road to reach your destination. Note: While these roads are manageable for most drivers, they may not be ideal for those uncomfortable with steep, mountainous terrain.
Once you arrive at Harbin, park in a lot near the guest office, where friendly receptionists will provide a map of the property. Harbin Hot Springs offers various accommodations, including cottages, dome housing, and campsites. Towels and clothing are available to borrow or purchase, but as mentioned earlier, it’s a good idea to pack warm clothing and slippers for comfort after your soak.
After checking in, grab your swimsuit and towel and head to the food court to explore the many snacks, smoothies and entrees available for purchase. Out of all of the hot springs I visited, Harbin is the only location with onsite food trucks, making this the only hot spring-specific dining court I’ve experienced in Northern California.
The food court offers deluxe sandwiches, salads and other healthy dishes, along with fun coffee and tea drinks to satisfy your caffeine cravings. The dining area is outside, where some guests relax and enjoy their meals, while others, likely working remotely, use the space to work on their computers, as it’s one of the few spots on the property with internet access.
Harbin Hot Springs feels less like a traditional hot spring destination and more like a fully equipped yoga and meditation retreat center, with some of the most beautiful mineral baths I’ve encountered. The “eight pools” section is an especially famous spot on the property, with an elaborate floor of mineral pools just a short walk uphill from the entrance of the property. With stunning views of the rolling mountains of Lake County, the eight pools at Harbin include both hot and cold pools, as well as smaller tubs where guests can socialize. One area, called the “meditation pool,” encourages soakers to sit in complete silence.
Another important section is the spa services pool, where trained practitioners offer Watsu aquatic massages. This unique form of massage combines Shiatsu techniques with a healing guided meditation in the warm pool. I highly recommend this experience for anyone dealing with tension in their body and mind and who may struggle with relaxing during a regular massage.
While I wanted to document the incredible eight pools section of the property, the Harbin team enforced a strict no-camera rule in that area. You’ll need to visit their website to see images of the baths.
As with other mineral baths in Northern California, the Pomo Indians were the first known community to utilize the healing properties Harbin Hot Springs. Harbin officially inherited its current name from European settlers in the 1800s. James Harbin, a colonizer from the Deep South, seized the property in 1856 and created the first known resort on the land.
In 1972, during the resurgence of holistic health and spirituality in the counterculture movement, Harbin Hot Springs was purchased by the Heart Consciousness Church. The church completed its absorption of the property in 1975 as a nonprofit entity. Harbin is recognized as a church by both the federal government and the state of California, which means the organization is allowed to operate under the legal and tax-exempt status granted to religious groups. This categorization also signaled a sense of spirituality at the hot spring, where visitors could take part in workshops focused on alternative healing methods, distinct from Western medicine.
In 2015, Harbin was devastated by the Valley Fire, which scorched about 1,700 acres of forestland and destroyed 95 percent of the resort’s structures. The fire not only impacted employees and guests but also took a toll on the rich history of Harbin that had existed since the late 1900s.
“The rebuild has been taking place since shortly after the fire and continues now and into the future,” said Chayo Mosqueda, Harbin’s managing director, in an interview. “We are currently working on restoring the Harbin EcoFarm, located on the road into Harbin. We have also started the construction of the replacement hotel and the Stonefront restaurant.”
Mosqueda added that due to the COVID-19 pandemic, construction costs have risen.
“Rebuilding is slow because it is funded by much-appreciated donations. COVID slowed everything down and substantially increased all costs across the retreat center,” she said.
She also noted that before the fire, Harbin had a permanent residential structure, but it was lost in the blaze. “We are still living in the total devastation of losing not only the buildings but also our community. But thanks to our devoted staff and the return of our member guests, we have managed to begin to heal and reestablish our desire to continue offering the healing waters.”
Despite these challenges, Harbin Hot Springs seems to be thriving with outdoor dining options, spa services, as well as yoga and dance classes. The center even holds community movie nights for guests staying a few days.
One defining feature of Harbin is its long tradition of being a clothing-optional resort, with almost 100 percent of guests opting for no suits while soaking. This is an age-old custom inherited from bathhouses in Roman, Greek and Japanese traditions. In the 1960s and 70s, nude bathhouses in California became popular hubs for many people in the LGBTQ+ community to socialize. If you do choose to wear a suit at Harbin, you’ll likely be one of the only ones to do so.
For me, Harbin was a momentous experience. It was enlightening, calming and unique, though it didn’t quite offer the type of hot spring relaxation I’m looking for. It’s a retreat center for those serious about deepening their knowledge of body work and spirituality, rather than simply enjoying a soak. That said, I recommend a visit — especially for the eight-pool section, which offers more mineral bath options than any other resort I’ve visited.
To review the vast list of events held on the property, visit the Harbin Hot Springs calendar. Online reservations are available at harbin.org or you can call (707) 987-2477.
Orr Hot Springs Resort
Address: 13201 Orr Springs Road, Ukiah. Day pass: $50
Orr Hot Springs is a space where, even in the span of a day, you can forget the chaos of the outside world.
The hot spring is about a 30-minute drive west from Ukiah, with Orr Springs Road leading you through the bucolic landscapes that Mendocino County is known for. Orr Hot Springs has a long history and is recognized as the oldest business in the county with the same name since its founding in 1858, when it was named after settler Samuel Orr.
Once you arrive at Orr — just a short distance from the popular Montgomery Woods trails — you’ll find a couple of large parking lots outside the property for you to leave your car. From there, a small, rustic walking trail takes you to the entrance.
The Orr property is a 27-acre parcel of land bordering the headwaters of the Big River, with enormous redwoods marking every corner of the landscape. Upon entering Orr, you’ll see small cabins scattered throughout the property and an enchanting, old wooden door that looks like it’s out of a fairytale book.
The main office, which includes a communal kitchen, game room, couch and fireplace, is located near the entrance. Two black-and-white cats, Sebastian and Calypso, often rest on the couch to greet visitors, their playfulness adding to the charm of your arrival. The room with the kittens has couches for guests to rest on, and a large collection of games and books. There is no cell phone service or Wi-Fi on the property, which adds to the sense of calm you feel spending the day there.
Once you check in with the front desk receptionist, they will give you a detailed outline of the property, letting you know how you can access the outdoor pool, mineral baths, saunas and private tubs. To feel as comfortable as possible after your soak, make sure to bring a towel, bathrobe, slippers, a warm jacket and sweatpants. (Orr is located underneath a grove of Redwoods and can become quite chilly at nighttime.)
Folks shouldn’t use shampoo or soaps in the pools or tubs, but there’s an outdoor shower where you can wash up with your personal toiletries. Orr suggests that visitors bring biodegradable products with no chemicals.
It is also recommended that you bring water bottles — but no glass bottles — as well as snacks and food to cook in the kitchen. (Orr has no food for sale and the property is about 12 miles from the nearest grocery store.)
Orr is a clothing option facility, so don’t be surprised when you notice seventy percent of the guests at the pools are wearing no suits.
The mineral waters, which run about 106 degrees Fahrenheit, contain sulfur, calcium, potassium, boron, and other natural minerals. (Harbin and Orr have the warmest mineral waters I experienced on my journey, with Vichy’s water being somewhat lukewarm).
The mineral baths give the body a sense of calm, relaxation and tranquility, while also making your skin feel smooth and soft. If you choose to stay the night at Orr, you can select from cabins, yurts, cottages, or camping. Some cabins are the same ones used by hot spring residents in the early 1900s, when Orr had more permanent occupants as a cooperatively-owned community resort.
While it’s nearly impossible for me to choose a favorite spring, each location offering its own unique style, environment and amenities, I’d have to say that Orr Hot Springs gave me the complete isolation I needed to feel relaxed. Whether it was the picturesque drive to the property, the towering crowd of redwoods or the complete lack of cell service that brought me to my most calm state, I’m not quite sure, but I do know the Orr Hot Springs experience was one I will cherish as a tranquil space away from the worries of the outside world.
Orr Hot Springs doesn’t yet accept online reservations. To check day-use availability, call (707) 462-6277. Reservations at Orr book up weeks in advance, so if you’re thinking of going, make sure to call ahead of time.
This story originally appeared in The Mendocino Voice.
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